Archive for November, 2008
mini MP4 Player 8GB
angel1341uk asked:
*UPDATE* I HAVE NOW ADDED A VIDEO SHOWING HOW TO INSTALL THE CONVERTER, HOW TO CHANGE THE MENCODER FOR AMD PROCESSORS AND HOW TO CONVERT VIDEOS.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=g93IfXg8TYM
Hope this helps….
***************
I COULDN’T get this damn thing to work at first. I couldn’t put any videos on it. Well I couldn’t even convert them to the correct format .avi
Even though the files I had was .avi anyway. The person who I bought this from suggest that I put the resolution to 320×240, Quality Normal and Ratio 4:3 he said it seems to be the best. So I tried but no luck. The damn AVIconverter program that can with it, kept saying error. Something about mencoder.exe
Was very frustrating.
Turns out that the files on the CD (mencoder.exe) disappeared once I installed the program. Reason being, it’s not right for my processor.
I have a AMD Processor. So anyone else who has this MP4 Player and can not get the videos to convert, it’s probably because you have a AMD Processor.
If so this is what you need to do
1)Install the software.
I created my own folder on the desktop “AVI Converter” and installed it all in there…
2)go to this link
http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=205275package_id=248631release_id=575226
and download
” MPlayer-athlon-svn-25962.7z”
3)After downloading it, unzip the folder on to you desktop.
You should now have a folder called
“MPlayer-athlon-svn-25962″ on your desktop.
4)Open that folder and copy ALL the files in it.
5)Then go to you AVI Converter file, open it and paste everything in to there.
It will say this filename already exists, overwrite? or something like that, just click yes to all.
By doing that, you overwrite the mencoder.exe with the new one which you just downloaded which works for PC’s with a AMD Processor.
Now it should work. It did for me 
If your processor is Intel and you have the same problem, then sorry I can’t help you!
Overall this MP4 player is ok.
Yes the touch screen can be a bit frustrating and it’s nowhere near as good as the iTouch, of course! but for those who can’t afford the iTouch and are not really bothered about pressing the screen a few times, then go a head and get one lol.
I’m fine with it. The touch screen doesn’t bother me that much and the only reason why I got this was because I can’t afford the iTouch (yet) and I only wanted to have something to play movies on for when I travel!
Sorry about the quality of the video!
What does the number refer to in Intel and AMD Processor names?
Waldo asked:
Like the 4800 in the AMD X2 Dual-Core 4800 or the 4500 in the Intel Core 2 Duo E4500? I know bigger number means faster, but is that number calculated from anything? Like processor speed + FSB speed or anything like that?
Like the 4800 in the AMD X2 Dual-Core 4800 or the 4500 in the Intel Core 2 Duo E4500? I know bigger number means faster, but is that number calculated from anything? Like processor speed + FSB speed or anything like that?
How to Build a Silent Pc or Home Theater Pc
John Applin asked:
Step 1 – Choose your case.
While the availability of small form factor PC cases are becoming increasingly widespread, as is the availability of small form factor motherboards and components, the choices aren’t as varied as standard size cases and components. Also you’ll find that small form factor components tend to be more expensive.
The next thing you’d have to contend with is the problem of heat. Cramming the latest technology into a tiny case inevitably puts components that generate a huge amount of heat (CPUs, graphics cards, northbridge, etc) closer together which then puts a greater emphasis on cooling. While you could cool the tiny rig with large fans you then encounter another problem, sound. Sure your teeny weeny home theatre PC is smaller than a poodle puppy and looks good near your TV but it generates the equivalent sound of a 747 during takeoff. Defeats the object I think you’ll agree.
Ditch the dreams of an ultra small HTPC because it’ll just cause you headaches. Me personally, I value functionality over aesthetics, with that in mind I went for a huge full tower PC case which was built for quiet operation and has the bonus of looking good too. I went for the Thermaltake Armor case in black. After a while you do get used to it in the front room and it becomes part of everyday life. Don’t forget that you don’t have to place your HTPC case near your TV, you could tuck it away behind the sofa. If your case is going to be on show it’s a good idea to choose your components so that they match colour-wise.
Step 2 – Choose Your Processor.
There are only 2 manufacturers of processor that you should consider; Intel and AMD. There are other manufacturers of processors but they are relatively uncommon and you will have a hard time trying to find components that are compatible. Personally I have always gone for AMD processors with self build projects, they perform on par with Intel processors and are generally cheaper when compared like for like with the Intel chips. Your choice of speed of processor is entirely up to you, some people like to go for the fastest they can afford, while it is true that you need a fairly fast processor you don’t need to go overboard if you’re just using the your media center PC in the living room to watch TV and listen to music. If you plan to use your media center PC for anything else such as games or video editing then you ought to really focus on buying an upper range model of processor. Don’t forget though that generally the faster the processor the more heat it will produce, and heat is the one thing that we’re trying to keep to a minimum due to the cooling. In my HTPC I opted for an AMD Athlon XP 2400+. This processor is by no means fast by today’s standards but it performs the job well using Windows Media Center 2005 (and Windows Vista) and even copes fairly well with the games that I run occasionally. This processor is really cheap now as it has been superseded; a quick search on ebay sees some XP 2400+ processors selling for less than £40. If I were to build one again right now I would probably be opting for a processor that would fit a socket 940 motherboard as this would ensure that the PC is upgradeable in the future should I need to.
Step 3 – Choose your motherboard (or mainboard).
The motherboard will be your key purchase, it might not be the most expensive component but choosing a motherboard wisely can maximise the performance of all the other components that are going to attach to it. You don’t want to be spending £200 on a processor which isn’t performing to its capabilities due to a wrong choice in your £50 motherboard do you? Your choice of motherboard will be primarily determined by your choice of processor. If you have chosen a AMD XP 2400+ processor like the one I have then you will need to choose a socket A motherboard. If you have chosen a newer AMD processor like the AMD Sempron 3600+ for instance, then you will most likely need a socket 940 motherboard. If you’ve chosen a newer Intel processor like the Pentium D 930 then you will most likely need a socket 775 motherboard. Look at the manufacturer’s documentation that accompanies the processor and it will tell you which socket of motherboard that it will fit into. Please note that you must buy the right motherboard that will fit your processor, otherwise the two will not fit together in anyway and they will be entirely incompatible.
Now you have determined which ‘socket’ of motherboard you need it’s time to shop around. Make sure you buy a motherboard with a decent chipset manufacturer such as Nvidia (nforce chipset), Intel, or VIA (the chipset of the motherboard is handles data traffic between your processor, memory, and any peripherals you may have installed). If you plan to use your Media Center PC primarily for watching TV and listening to music then you might want to consider opting for a motherboard with on board graphics (graphics card built on to the motherboard), on board sound card, and on board LAN/wireless card. This would pretty much take care of most of the components you would need all on one board. If you’re going to use your Media Center for games at any point then my advice would be to choose a motherboard that doesn’t incorporate on board graphics as the on board graphics built in to motherboards, though they will perform the job of displaying video adequately, don’t tend to be that powerful when it comes to gaming. You could also opt to have a separate sound card that provides higher quality sound it all depends on how serious you are about the sound that’s going to be coming from your HTPC, for most I think the onboard sound would do (tip: whether going for onboard sound or a separate sound card, make sure it’s capable of at least 5.1 surround sound for use when watching DVDs. Even if you only plan on using 2 speakers, these cards can be configured for 2 speaker output). In my HTPC I opted for the MSI K7N2 Delta-L socket A motherboard. It came with onboard LAN and onboard 5.1 sound but I chose to add a separate sound card for reasons I shall divulge later.
Step 4 – Choose your hard drive (HDD).
This should be quite an easy one. Basically bigger is definitely better. You want as much space as you possibly can if you plan to record a lot of films and programs. Don’t be tempted to go for the 10,000 rpm models of hard drive though as they are louder and generate a lot of heat, you probably won’t notice much of a performance gain by using this type of hard drive in a Media Center environment anyhow. In my setup I went for the Maxtor Diamondmax 10 300gb 7200rpm IDE hard drive which is plenty space for all my film recordings and music, I also use my Media Center PC as a file server for my other PC and laptop, so my suggestion is that around 300gb of hard drive space will suffice. Be sure to choose the type of hard drive interface connection that suits your motherboard, i.e. if your motherboard supports the SATA interface choose a hard drive that also uses the SATA interface. Note that the two interfaces (SATA and IDE) are not interchangeable. The most recent motherboards usually come with both interfaces integrated into the board so you shouldn’t have a problem.
Hard drives are also a big contributor to the noise and heat problem, it might be a wise idea to invest in a hard drive silencer/cooler, I want my HTPC to be as quiet as possible so I went for the Scythe Quiet Drive which is a HDD silencer and cooler all in one.
Step 5 – Choose your memory (RAM).
The main thing to look for when buying RAM (Random Access Memory) is making sure it is compatible with the motherboard you have purchased. If your motherboard says it supports DDR400 then this means that it only supports RAM which is Double Data Rate (DDR) and will only support speeds of RAM up to 400MHz (yes RAM has a speed it operates at too). In some cases if a motherboard says it supports up to DDR400 it also means that it will support the formats below it, for example; a DDR400 motherboard may also support DDR333, DDR266, and DDR200 RAM modules. It has to be noted that you cannot use SDRAM in a DDR interface and vice versa. Another thing to look out for is if your motherboard supports Dual Channel RAM. The idea behind Dual Channel RAM is that you install 2 identical RAM modules on you motherboard in the banks that are designated for Dual Channel operation. The data that comes from your processor is then effectively split into 2 parts, the 1st part is sent to the first RAM module and the 2nd part is sent to the other RAM module. Because the data is split into 2 in an interleaving way this has the theoretical effect of doubling the read/write performance of data that is sent to and from the processor. If this is the way you want to go with your HTPC then you should be looking for a Dual Channel kit of RAM. It has to be noted that just because your motherboard states it has Dual Channel capabilities it doesn’t mean you have to use a Dual Channel kit of RAM, you can just use 1 module of RAM if you wish and it will still do the job, just not as quick as it could be. Once you have determined the speed and type of RAM you need it’s time to look at how much RAM you actually need. Again my advice is bigger is better but don’t go over the top. I have used a Corsair 1gb DDR 400 Dual Channel kit (2 identical 512mb modules of RAM) in my setup and it manages perfectly well.
Step – 6 Choose your DVD Drive.
This is quite straight forward as you will need a DVD drive that can read all available formats of disc and also able to write to all formats of disc for when you need to backup films or music, pick a DVD that writes Dual Layer +R and –R formats. The speed at which it writes is totally up to you, generally the faster it can write to a disc the more expensive it will be. Be sure to pick one with a colour that is going to match your case though or it’ll stick out like a sore thumb. Generally a good make of DVD burner that will write all formats costs around £30. The make of DVD writer that I chose was a LiteOn. I’ve had a lot of experience with this manufacturer of DVD drives and I can tell you that they are good value for money.
Step – 7 Choose your graphics card.
If you have gone for the motherboard with on the on board graphics then you can skip this part as it doesn’t apply. If you have chosen to go for a separate graphics card then I assume it’s because you also intend to use your Media Center PC for games. With this option the sky’s the limit with graphics cards, some top end cards can cost you more than all the other components of the PC combined. I have found from previous experience that cards that cost around the £120 mark usually perform really well with games and they won’t break the bank. Don’t forget though that the more powerful the graphics card then generally the hotter it gets and the more cooling that has to be applied to it. Graphics cards are renowned for have the worst sounding cooling fans that whine at just the right pitch that it drives you mad. If you have chosen to go for a separate graphics card then it might be worth spending that bit extra and buying a fanless heatsink to go with it. This is the option I have gone for and you will really appreciate it in the long run. Also worth noting is the different sorts of output present on the card such as S-Video etc, as this will determine if the card is compatible with the inputs on your current TV.
Step – 8 Choose your power supply.
Power supplies generally put out quite a lot of noise due the amount of power they have to cope with while running all the components in your system. Remember generally speaking power = heat = noise due to cooling. If you have an unlimited budget then I’d tell you to go for a fanless power supply as these are ideal, they generally have large heatsinks and use heat pipe technology to dissipate the heat. The downside to this is that they cost a small fortune for one that’s any good. My recommendation would be to go for a power supply with a fairly large power rating that is billed as ‘silent’ and contains a 120mm fan. Remember that you need a power supply that can provide more power than the sum of the maximum power ratings of all the components that make up your system. My general experience with power supplies is that you can’t really trust what it says on the box. If it says it’s silent and costs £10 then what you’ll find is that it’s silent for about a minute before you turn it on, once you turn it on it sounds like a small hovercraft! In order to achieve a near silent power supply using a large fan it really is a case of you get what you pay for. In my opinion you need to spend between £30 and £40 to get a decent power supply that you could call silent, unless you’re feeling brave then you can do what I have done. I’m quite reluctant to spend money where I think I’m being ripped off. In the case of so called decent ‘silent’ power supplies I think people are being charged over the odds for what is basically a bog standard power supply with a slightly better fan (no doubt someone will point out to me the other factors which justify power supplies costing more). With this in mind I took my 500W Qtec ‘silent’ power supply with 120mm fan which cost £15 (this power supply is about as far from silent as possible!) and exchanged the fan for a truly silent Zalman Silenx Vario 120mm fan from Puresilence. Hey presto, a very very quiet power supply and all it cost was £25 in total and a bit of screwdriver action!
*DISCLAIMER* If you choose to swap out the fan in your power supply to one other than the manufacturers’ specifications then you do so at your own risk. It could cause a fire and will certainly invalidate your warranty. I won’t be held responsible for any damages that may occur due to malfunction of your power supply.
Step 9 – Choose your Cooling.
Now this is a biggy, what you want is as much cooling as possible i.e. a number of case fans. While also being as quiet as possible i.e. the bigger the fans the better, bigger fans = slower rotation (while still providing the same throughput of air) = less noise. You also might want to think about swapping the standard heatsinks, that come with your processor, northbridge chipset, and graphics cards to fanless ones. I already chose a graphics card that came with a fanless heatsink so it was just a case of finding a suitable fanless heatsink for my processor and northbridge. There were many options to choose from but I opted for the Thermaltake SilentTower which cost £20 from DCS Doncaster for my processor because it will run perfectly well fanless but also allows you to add 2 large 90mm fans for extra cooling should you want to. For my northbridge I opted for the Zalman ZM-NB47J Silent Motherboard Heatsink which was £6.00 from QuietPC. Of course if you’re going to use fanless heatsinks in your setup then this puts even more emphasis on the need for case fans, if you don’t have adequate heat exhaustion in your case then the heat from your heatsinks will warm up all the components in your system and thus compromises performance, or worst case scenario a component fails. This is the main reason why I chose the Thermaltake Armor case, it has shed loads of ventilation and is provided with 2 x 120mm and 2 x 90mm quiet fans. If you need to buy quiet fans I recommend the Pure Silence website. I bought one of the 120mm silent fans from their site to replace the one in my power supply and I can confirm that they are deathly silent.
I also recommend that you buy a fan speed controller, this is a device that usually fits into one of the 5.25” drive bays on the front of your PC, it allows you to control the exact speed of all your fans, i.e. you can make you PC as quiet as you like but also be able to ramp up all the fan speeds should you need that little bit of extra cooling.
I opted for the Thermaltake Hardcano13 which cost £36.75 from DCS Doncaster as it matched my case and also came with a built in card reader to boot.
Step 10 – Choose your TV tuner card.
There are many different options you can go for when choosing a TV tuner card. Some cards have just a single analogue tuner, some have digital HDTV capabilities, some have 2 tuners on the same board so you can watch 1 channel while recording another, and some are combinations of the previous. You have to think to yourself what you’re going to use your PC for, is it just to watch TV or are you planning to download any home videos from your camcorder any time soon, if the answer is yes then you want some sort of AV input.
Bearing in mind that all TV is due to switch to digital transmission in the UK, and the advent of digital HDTV, I opted for the Dvico Fusion dual HDTV DVB-T tuner which cost £114.95 from theglowlounge. This card comes with a well built remote, works brilliantly, and also has AV input, you can read a detailed review of this card at johnsreviews.
Step 11 – Choose your control device.
Now that you have chosen all the necessary components it’s time to choose your control devices. You have the option of the classic TV style remote or you can be really flashy and go for a full media centre keyboard, or both!
Microsoft produces good quality products for Windows Media Center, which of course are 100% compatible and require little in the way of setting up. There are many other third party products that are well worth looking at though; I chose to go for the Logitech Cordless Desktop S 510 with Media Remote which cost £49.99 from what used to be Dixons, the remote requires a little bit of setting up due to the customizable keys but nothing too difficult even if you have little experience with PCs. What I liked about this remote is that it is smaller than most of the other media center remotes and it has a unique scroll wheel in the centre which allows you to fly through menus and TV guides at lightning speeds! Most media center remotes will do the job, it’s all down to a matter of personal taste.
Step 12 – Assembly.
So that’s it you’ve chosen all your components, laid them all out in front of you, but haven’t the faintest idea where to start. Well I could spend another month writing pages and pages of instructions on how to install every component and configure the PC for optimal performance but I think the following videos can explain it just as well and in less time!
Please note that the instructional videos apply to the general building of PCs but exactly the same principles apply to building a Home Theatre PC.
Step 1 – Choose your case.
While the availability of small form factor PC cases are becoming increasingly widespread, as is the availability of small form factor motherboards and components, the choices aren’t as varied as standard size cases and components. Also you’ll find that small form factor components tend to be more expensive.
The next thing you’d have to contend with is the problem of heat. Cramming the latest technology into a tiny case inevitably puts components that generate a huge amount of heat (CPUs, graphics cards, northbridge, etc) closer together which then puts a greater emphasis on cooling. While you could cool the tiny rig with large fans you then encounter another problem, sound. Sure your teeny weeny home theatre PC is smaller than a poodle puppy and looks good near your TV but it generates the equivalent sound of a 747 during takeoff. Defeats the object I think you’ll agree.
Ditch the dreams of an ultra small HTPC because it’ll just cause you headaches. Me personally, I value functionality over aesthetics, with that in mind I went for a huge full tower PC case which was built for quiet operation and has the bonus of looking good too. I went for the Thermaltake Armor case in black. After a while you do get used to it in the front room and it becomes part of everyday life. Don’t forget that you don’t have to place your HTPC case near your TV, you could tuck it away behind the sofa. If your case is going to be on show it’s a good idea to choose your components so that they match colour-wise.
Step 2 – Choose Your Processor.
There are only 2 manufacturers of processor that you should consider; Intel and AMD. There are other manufacturers of processors but they are relatively uncommon and you will have a hard time trying to find components that are compatible. Personally I have always gone for AMD processors with self build projects, they perform on par with Intel processors and are generally cheaper when compared like for like with the Intel chips. Your choice of speed of processor is entirely up to you, some people like to go for the fastest they can afford, while it is true that you need a fairly fast processor you don’t need to go overboard if you’re just using the your media center PC in the living room to watch TV and listen to music. If you plan to use your media center PC for anything else such as games or video editing then you ought to really focus on buying an upper range model of processor. Don’t forget though that generally the faster the processor the more heat it will produce, and heat is the one thing that we’re trying to keep to a minimum due to the cooling. In my HTPC I opted for an AMD Athlon XP 2400+. This processor is by no means fast by today’s standards but it performs the job well using Windows Media Center 2005 (and Windows Vista) and even copes fairly well with the games that I run occasionally. This processor is really cheap now as it has been superseded; a quick search on ebay sees some XP 2400+ processors selling for less than £40. If I were to build one again right now I would probably be opting for a processor that would fit a socket 940 motherboard as this would ensure that the PC is upgradeable in the future should I need to.
Step 3 – Choose your motherboard (or mainboard).
The motherboard will be your key purchase, it might not be the most expensive component but choosing a motherboard wisely can maximise the performance of all the other components that are going to attach to it. You don’t want to be spending £200 on a processor which isn’t performing to its capabilities due to a wrong choice in your £50 motherboard do you? Your choice of motherboard will be primarily determined by your choice of processor. If you have chosen a AMD XP 2400+ processor like the one I have then you will need to choose a socket A motherboard. If you have chosen a newer AMD processor like the AMD Sempron 3600+ for instance, then you will most likely need a socket 940 motherboard. If you’ve chosen a newer Intel processor like the Pentium D 930 then you will most likely need a socket 775 motherboard. Look at the manufacturer’s documentation that accompanies the processor and it will tell you which socket of motherboard that it will fit into. Please note that you must buy the right motherboard that will fit your processor, otherwise the two will not fit together in anyway and they will be entirely incompatible.
Now you have determined which ‘socket’ of motherboard you need it’s time to shop around. Make sure you buy a motherboard with a decent chipset manufacturer such as Nvidia (nforce chipset), Intel, or VIA (the chipset of the motherboard is handles data traffic between your processor, memory, and any peripherals you may have installed). If you plan to use your Media Center PC primarily for watching TV and listening to music then you might want to consider opting for a motherboard with on board graphics (graphics card built on to the motherboard), on board sound card, and on board LAN/wireless card. This would pretty much take care of most of the components you would need all on one board. If you’re going to use your Media Center for games at any point then my advice would be to choose a motherboard that doesn’t incorporate on board graphics as the on board graphics built in to motherboards, though they will perform the job of displaying video adequately, don’t tend to be that powerful when it comes to gaming. You could also opt to have a separate sound card that provides higher quality sound it all depends on how serious you are about the sound that’s going to be coming from your HTPC, for most I think the onboard sound would do (tip: whether going for onboard sound or a separate sound card, make sure it’s capable of at least 5.1 surround sound for use when watching DVDs. Even if you only plan on using 2 speakers, these cards can be configured for 2 speaker output). In my HTPC I opted for the MSI K7N2 Delta-L socket A motherboard. It came with onboard LAN and onboard 5.1 sound but I chose to add a separate sound card for reasons I shall divulge later.
Step 4 – Choose your hard drive (HDD).
This should be quite an easy one. Basically bigger is definitely better. You want as much space as you possibly can if you plan to record a lot of films and programs. Don’t be tempted to go for the 10,000 rpm models of hard drive though as they are louder and generate a lot of heat, you probably won’t notice much of a performance gain by using this type of hard drive in a Media Center environment anyhow. In my setup I went for the Maxtor Diamondmax 10 300gb 7200rpm IDE hard drive which is plenty space for all my film recordings and music, I also use my Media Center PC as a file server for my other PC and laptop, so my suggestion is that around 300gb of hard drive space will suffice. Be sure to choose the type of hard drive interface connection that suits your motherboard, i.e. if your motherboard supports the SATA interface choose a hard drive that also uses the SATA interface. Note that the two interfaces (SATA and IDE) are not interchangeable. The most recent motherboards usually come with both interfaces integrated into the board so you shouldn’t have a problem.
Hard drives are also a big contributor to the noise and heat problem, it might be a wise idea to invest in a hard drive silencer/cooler, I want my HTPC to be as quiet as possible so I went for the Scythe Quiet Drive which is a HDD silencer and cooler all in one.
Step 5 – Choose your memory (RAM).
The main thing to look for when buying RAM (Random Access Memory) is making sure it is compatible with the motherboard you have purchased. If your motherboard says it supports DDR400 then this means that it only supports RAM which is Double Data Rate (DDR) and will only support speeds of RAM up to 400MHz (yes RAM has a speed it operates at too). In some cases if a motherboard says it supports up to DDR400 it also means that it will support the formats below it, for example; a DDR400 motherboard may also support DDR333, DDR266, and DDR200 RAM modules. It has to be noted that you cannot use SDRAM in a DDR interface and vice versa. Another thing to look out for is if your motherboard supports Dual Channel RAM. The idea behind Dual Channel RAM is that you install 2 identical RAM modules on you motherboard in the banks that are designated for Dual Channel operation. The data that comes from your processor is then effectively split into 2 parts, the 1st part is sent to the first RAM module and the 2nd part is sent to the other RAM module. Because the data is split into 2 in an interleaving way this has the theoretical effect of doubling the read/write performance of data that is sent to and from the processor. If this is the way you want to go with your HTPC then you should be looking for a Dual Channel kit of RAM. It has to be noted that just because your motherboard states it has Dual Channel capabilities it doesn’t mean you have to use a Dual Channel kit of RAM, you can just use 1 module of RAM if you wish and it will still do the job, just not as quick as it could be. Once you have determined the speed and type of RAM you need it’s time to look at how much RAM you actually need. Again my advice is bigger is better but don’t go over the top. I have used a Corsair 1gb DDR 400 Dual Channel kit (2 identical 512mb modules of RAM) in my setup and it manages perfectly well.
Step – 6 Choose your DVD Drive.
This is quite straight forward as you will need a DVD drive that can read all available formats of disc and also able to write to all formats of disc for when you need to backup films or music, pick a DVD that writes Dual Layer +R and –R formats. The speed at which it writes is totally up to you, generally the faster it can write to a disc the more expensive it will be. Be sure to pick one with a colour that is going to match your case though or it’ll stick out like a sore thumb. Generally a good make of DVD burner that will write all formats costs around £30. The make of DVD writer that I chose was a LiteOn. I’ve had a lot of experience with this manufacturer of DVD drives and I can tell you that they are good value for money.
Step – 7 Choose your graphics card.
If you have gone for the motherboard with on the on board graphics then you can skip this part as it doesn’t apply. If you have chosen to go for a separate graphics card then I assume it’s because you also intend to use your Media Center PC for games. With this option the sky’s the limit with graphics cards, some top end cards can cost you more than all the other components of the PC combined. I have found from previous experience that cards that cost around the £120 mark usually perform really well with games and they won’t break the bank. Don’t forget though that the more powerful the graphics card then generally the hotter it gets and the more cooling that has to be applied to it. Graphics cards are renowned for have the worst sounding cooling fans that whine at just the right pitch that it drives you mad. If you have chosen to go for a separate graphics card then it might be worth spending that bit extra and buying a fanless heatsink to go with it. This is the option I have gone for and you will really appreciate it in the long run. Also worth noting is the different sorts of output present on the card such as S-Video etc, as this will determine if the card is compatible with the inputs on your current TV.
Step – 8 Choose your power supply.
Power supplies generally put out quite a lot of noise due the amount of power they have to cope with while running all the components in your system. Remember generally speaking power = heat = noise due to cooling. If you have an unlimited budget then I’d tell you to go for a fanless power supply as these are ideal, they generally have large heatsinks and use heat pipe technology to dissipate the heat. The downside to this is that they cost a small fortune for one that’s any good. My recommendation would be to go for a power supply with a fairly large power rating that is billed as ‘silent’ and contains a 120mm fan. Remember that you need a power supply that can provide more power than the sum of the maximum power ratings of all the components that make up your system. My general experience with power supplies is that you can’t really trust what it says on the box. If it says it’s silent and costs £10 then what you’ll find is that it’s silent for about a minute before you turn it on, once you turn it on it sounds like a small hovercraft! In order to achieve a near silent power supply using a large fan it really is a case of you get what you pay for. In my opinion you need to spend between £30 and £40 to get a decent power supply that you could call silent, unless you’re feeling brave then you can do what I have done. I’m quite reluctant to spend money where I think I’m being ripped off. In the case of so called decent ‘silent’ power supplies I think people are being charged over the odds for what is basically a bog standard power supply with a slightly better fan (no doubt someone will point out to me the other factors which justify power supplies costing more). With this in mind I took my 500W Qtec ‘silent’ power supply with 120mm fan which cost £15 (this power supply is about as far from silent as possible!) and exchanged the fan for a truly silent Zalman Silenx Vario 120mm fan from Puresilence. Hey presto, a very very quiet power supply and all it cost was £25 in total and a bit of screwdriver action!
*DISCLAIMER* If you choose to swap out the fan in your power supply to one other than the manufacturers’ specifications then you do so at your own risk. It could cause a fire and will certainly invalidate your warranty. I won’t be held responsible for any damages that may occur due to malfunction of your power supply.
Step 9 – Choose your Cooling.
Now this is a biggy, what you want is as much cooling as possible i.e. a number of case fans. While also being as quiet as possible i.e. the bigger the fans the better, bigger fans = slower rotation (while still providing the same throughput of air) = less noise. You also might want to think about swapping the standard heatsinks, that come with your processor, northbridge chipset, and graphics cards to fanless ones. I already chose a graphics card that came with a fanless heatsink so it was just a case of finding a suitable fanless heatsink for my processor and northbridge. There were many options to choose from but I opted for the Thermaltake SilentTower which cost £20 from DCS Doncaster for my processor because it will run perfectly well fanless but also allows you to add 2 large 90mm fans for extra cooling should you want to. For my northbridge I opted for the Zalman ZM-NB47J Silent Motherboard Heatsink which was £6.00 from QuietPC. Of course if you’re going to use fanless heatsinks in your setup then this puts even more emphasis on the need for case fans, if you don’t have adequate heat exhaustion in your case then the heat from your heatsinks will warm up all the components in your system and thus compromises performance, or worst case scenario a component fails. This is the main reason why I chose the Thermaltake Armor case, it has shed loads of ventilation and is provided with 2 x 120mm and 2 x 90mm quiet fans. If you need to buy quiet fans I recommend the Pure Silence website. I bought one of the 120mm silent fans from their site to replace the one in my power supply and I can confirm that they are deathly silent.
I also recommend that you buy a fan speed controller, this is a device that usually fits into one of the 5.25” drive bays on the front of your PC, it allows you to control the exact speed of all your fans, i.e. you can make you PC as quiet as you like but also be able to ramp up all the fan speeds should you need that little bit of extra cooling.
I opted for the Thermaltake Hardcano13 which cost £36.75 from DCS Doncaster as it matched my case and also came with a built in card reader to boot.
Step 10 – Choose your TV tuner card.
There are many different options you can go for when choosing a TV tuner card. Some cards have just a single analogue tuner, some have digital HDTV capabilities, some have 2 tuners on the same board so you can watch 1 channel while recording another, and some are combinations of the previous. You have to think to yourself what you’re going to use your PC for, is it just to watch TV or are you planning to download any home videos from your camcorder any time soon, if the answer is yes then you want some sort of AV input.
Bearing in mind that all TV is due to switch to digital transmission in the UK, and the advent of digital HDTV, I opted for the Dvico Fusion dual HDTV DVB-T tuner which cost £114.95 from theglowlounge. This card comes with a well built remote, works brilliantly, and also has AV input, you can read a detailed review of this card at johnsreviews.
Step 11 – Choose your control device.
Now that you have chosen all the necessary components it’s time to choose your control devices. You have the option of the classic TV style remote or you can be really flashy and go for a full media centre keyboard, or both!
Microsoft produces good quality products for Windows Media Center, which of course are 100% compatible and require little in the way of setting up. There are many other third party products that are well worth looking at though; I chose to go for the Logitech Cordless Desktop S 510 with Media Remote which cost £49.99 from what used to be Dixons, the remote requires a little bit of setting up due to the customizable keys but nothing too difficult even if you have little experience with PCs. What I liked about this remote is that it is smaller than most of the other media center remotes and it has a unique scroll wheel in the centre which allows you to fly through menus and TV guides at lightning speeds! Most media center remotes will do the job, it’s all down to a matter of personal taste.
Step 12 – Assembly.
So that’s it you’ve chosen all your components, laid them all out in front of you, but haven’t the faintest idea where to start. Well I could spend another month writing pages and pages of instructions on how to install every component and configure the PC for optimal performance but I think the following videos can explain it just as well and in less time!
Please note that the instructional videos apply to the general building of PCs but exactly the same principles apply to building a Home Theatre PC.
Intel Vs AMD processor
xiaowen1212 asked:
Intel Vs AMD processor
AMD Versus Intel CPU War
Chris Hall asked:
If you are in the market to purchase a computer there are many options in existence. You can purchase a Hewlett Packard, Gateway, IBM, or a custom built system. But there is one thing that all of these computers will utilize and that is a CPU (central processing unit). The CPU is responsible for interpreting and executing instructions for the motherboard. CPU’s are key to the functioning of your new computer. CPU’s from Intel and AMD power virtually every personal computer that you can purchase today.
The argument over an AMD CPU versus an Intel CPU and which has a higher functionality is currently raging. Simply two years ago this was not even a question. Anyone would tell you that the Intel CPU won the speed and complex algorithm war with AMD CPU’s without question. Fast-forward to today and Intel is now playing catch-up to the latest in AMD technologies.
Intel played marketing games with their CPU’s pricing them high and touting the functionality that they posses as cutting edge. AMD started out as the cheap alternative CPU manufacturer for computer brands such as e-Machines and low-end Compaqs. From the beginning, AMD CPU’s were fighting an uphill battle to catch up with the technology in the Intel CPU. As the years have progressed, AMD has progressed.
AMD now clearly leads in the consumer pricing wars. AMD CPU equipped machines with similar performance specifications will cost you hundreds of dollars less than equivalent Intel CPU based machines. This cost differential is now enough to push many Intel CPU customers to the upstart AMD CPU equipped machines.
If performance is the main concern over price, the AMD CPU line was the first to include 64 bit technology. In 2003 AMD pushed the first 64 bit CPU to market. It was unstable and unreliable at first. But the underlying architecture was sound. The AMD 64 bit CPU was soon running stable and fast. The performance of this AMD CPU caught the Intel CPU team off guard.
Intel had to rush to market their EMT64 CPU to compete with this upstart challenge from AMD. The next item on the board was dual CPU power. Again, AMD one-upped the Intel CPU rule.
AMD CPU’s have the information transfer on a dual chip machine flowing through the chips. The Intel dual CPU has a bridge to the motherboard where the information that is being processed by the dual CPU’s flows for splitting.
The internal data flow in the AMD CPU’s allows them to function with lower heat generation than the dual core Intel CPU’s. As a consumer this lower heat generation allows the AMD CPU to last longer than the Intel CPU.
If you are energy conscious, then the AMD CPU will be for you as well. The AMD CPU equipped motherboard will function with approximately 275 watts of power. Compare that to a similarly equipped Intel processor at 400 watts of power, and you have major energy savings by going to the AMD CPU.
So where do the Intel CPU’s win out over the AMD CPU’s? The Intel CPU’s are able to function faster with single programs. So, if you are going to play one game and only that game on your machine, the Intel CPU equipped machine can pull and analyze the data faster. However add in chat and e-mail running in the background and the AMD CPU machine catches up.
All in all, the CPU processor war that is currently waging between AMD and Intel is great for the consumer. Each company is in the middle of a CPU processor one-upmanship and both are looking to gain market share.
If you are in the market to purchase a computer there are many options in existence. You can purchase a Hewlett Packard, Gateway, IBM, or a custom built system. But there is one thing that all of these computers will utilize and that is a CPU (central processing unit). The CPU is responsible for interpreting and executing instructions for the motherboard. CPU’s are key to the functioning of your new computer. CPU’s from Intel and AMD power virtually every personal computer that you can purchase today.
The argument over an AMD CPU versus an Intel CPU and which has a higher functionality is currently raging. Simply two years ago this was not even a question. Anyone would tell you that the Intel CPU won the speed and complex algorithm war with AMD CPU’s without question. Fast-forward to today and Intel is now playing catch-up to the latest in AMD technologies.
Intel played marketing games with their CPU’s pricing them high and touting the functionality that they posses as cutting edge. AMD started out as the cheap alternative CPU manufacturer for computer brands such as e-Machines and low-end Compaqs. From the beginning, AMD CPU’s were fighting an uphill battle to catch up with the technology in the Intel CPU. As the years have progressed, AMD has progressed.
AMD now clearly leads in the consumer pricing wars. AMD CPU equipped machines with similar performance specifications will cost you hundreds of dollars less than equivalent Intel CPU based machines. This cost differential is now enough to push many Intel CPU customers to the upstart AMD CPU equipped machines.
If performance is the main concern over price, the AMD CPU line was the first to include 64 bit technology. In 2003 AMD pushed the first 64 bit CPU to market. It was unstable and unreliable at first. But the underlying architecture was sound. The AMD 64 bit CPU was soon running stable and fast. The performance of this AMD CPU caught the Intel CPU team off guard.
Intel had to rush to market their EMT64 CPU to compete with this upstart challenge from AMD. The next item on the board was dual CPU power. Again, AMD one-upped the Intel CPU rule.
AMD CPU’s have the information transfer on a dual chip machine flowing through the chips. The Intel dual CPU has a bridge to the motherboard where the information that is being processed by the dual CPU’s flows for splitting.
The internal data flow in the AMD CPU’s allows them to function with lower heat generation than the dual core Intel CPU’s. As a consumer this lower heat generation allows the AMD CPU to last longer than the Intel CPU.
If you are energy conscious, then the AMD CPU will be for you as well. The AMD CPU equipped motherboard will function with approximately 275 watts of power. Compare that to a similarly equipped Intel processor at 400 watts of power, and you have major energy savings by going to the AMD CPU.
So where do the Intel CPU’s win out over the AMD CPU’s? The Intel CPU’s are able to function faster with single programs. So, if you are going to play one game and only that game on your machine, the Intel CPU equipped machine can pull and analyze the data faster. However add in chat and e-mail running in the background and the AMD CPU machine catches up.
All in all, the CPU processor war that is currently waging between AMD and Intel is great for the consumer. Each company is in the middle of a CPU processor one-upmanship and both are looking to gain market share.
What is the difference between and Intel Centrino Duo Processor and an AMD Turion?
inquire85 asked:
What is the difference between and Intel Centrino Duo Processor and an AMD Turion? Which processor is better? I am a web designer and I need a processor that can handle multiple programs at once. Any suggestions?
What is the difference between and Intel Centrino Duo Processor and an AMD Turion? Which processor is better? I am a web designer and I need a processor that can handle multiple programs at once. Any suggestions?
Is it true that an AMD processor can have problems with some games?
wouyy asked:
I heard that AMD processors aren´t compatible with some games. Is this true?
I heard that AMD processors aren´t compatible with some games. Is this true?
Motherboard Essentials
Felix K asked:
Motherboard is the foremost computer part that you should consider when assembling a PC. It is popularly called the heart of the computer since all components are connected to it. Basically, it relays information from and to all components. So when you assemble a PC, buy the motherboard first.
Buying a motherboard can be easy and convenient since they are already sold at a motherboard online store. All you have to do is list all your motherboard requirements and conveniently shop at a motherboard online store. If you’re unsure of your motherboard requirements, below is a rundown of the usual requirements.
1. Size. A motherboard is available in different sizes. If you are buying a motherboard to replace an old defective one, then be sure that you buy the same size as your old one; your motherboard may not fit inside your existing computer case. But if you are buying a motherboard for a new assembly, then the size factor will depend on the components that you wish to install.
2. Processor Type and Socket. The motherboard socket is where the processor is plugged-in. It used to be that processors such as Intel and AMD were able to share the same socket. But now, after a few years of improving processors, each brand of processor has its own socket type determined by the number of pins on it. Basically, you won’t be able to transfer from one brand of processor to another without replacing the motherboard as well. Even though replacing motherboard can be easy through a motherboard online store, the price tag can always cause a pinch. So if you want to avoid the unnecessary expenses of replacing a non-defective motherboard, carefully choose a processor that will match your CPU needs and use.
3. CPU components. The CPU components that should be specifically considered when buying a motherboard are: hard drive, memory and power supply. Memory cards are continually advancing and as they advance, their sockets advance drastically as well. The DDR for instance, the most commonly used memory card has 184 pins while the newly released DDR-2 has 240 pins. In the memory card market, the older version is usually phased out when a new version is released. So naturally, when your older version of memory card needs replacement, you may also need to replace the motherboard. This can be very frustrating especially if your motherboard does not have any defects. Therefore, to avoid being in this kind of situation, buy a motherboard that is compatible with the recent memory card versions.
The hard drive has more or less a similar story with memory cards. There are two types of hard drives available in the market: ATA and SATA, ATA being the older version and SATA the recent version. Recent versions of motherboards support both types but there are already quite a number that support only SATA. Manufacturers of the latter type may be anticipating an ATA phase out, so you may want to go with their anticipation. But just to be on the safe side, buy a motherboard that supports both HD types.
As CPU components advance, their power supply requirements advance as well. The typical motherboard power supply pins are in 20s and 24s. Moreover, newly launched processors, such as those from Intel and AMD, have separate power supply pins to support their high clock speed. So when you buy a motherboard for a new CPU assembly, consider the power supply requirements of your components.
Motherboard is the foremost computer part that you should consider when assembling a PC. It is popularly called the heart of the computer since all components are connected to it. Basically, it relays information from and to all components. So when you assemble a PC, buy the motherboard first.
Buying a motherboard can be easy and convenient since they are already sold at a motherboard online store. All you have to do is list all your motherboard requirements and conveniently shop at a motherboard online store. If you’re unsure of your motherboard requirements, below is a rundown of the usual requirements.
1. Size. A motherboard is available in different sizes. If you are buying a motherboard to replace an old defective one, then be sure that you buy the same size as your old one; your motherboard may not fit inside your existing computer case. But if you are buying a motherboard for a new assembly, then the size factor will depend on the components that you wish to install.
2. Processor Type and Socket. The motherboard socket is where the processor is plugged-in. It used to be that processors such as Intel and AMD were able to share the same socket. But now, after a few years of improving processors, each brand of processor has its own socket type determined by the number of pins on it. Basically, you won’t be able to transfer from one brand of processor to another without replacing the motherboard as well. Even though replacing motherboard can be easy through a motherboard online store, the price tag can always cause a pinch. So if you want to avoid the unnecessary expenses of replacing a non-defective motherboard, carefully choose a processor that will match your CPU needs and use.
3. CPU components. The CPU components that should be specifically considered when buying a motherboard are: hard drive, memory and power supply. Memory cards are continually advancing and as they advance, their sockets advance drastically as well. The DDR for instance, the most commonly used memory card has 184 pins while the newly released DDR-2 has 240 pins. In the memory card market, the older version is usually phased out when a new version is released. So naturally, when your older version of memory card needs replacement, you may also need to replace the motherboard. This can be very frustrating especially if your motherboard does not have any defects. Therefore, to avoid being in this kind of situation, buy a motherboard that is compatible with the recent memory card versions.
The hard drive has more or less a similar story with memory cards. There are two types of hard drives available in the market: ATA and SATA, ATA being the older version and SATA the recent version. Recent versions of motherboards support both types but there are already quite a number that support only SATA. Manufacturers of the latter type may be anticipating an ATA phase out, so you may want to go with their anticipation. But just to be on the safe side, buy a motherboard that supports both HD types.
As CPU components advance, their power supply requirements advance as well. The typical motherboard power supply pins are in 20s and 24s. Moreover, newly launched processors, such as those from Intel and AMD, have separate power supply pins to support their high clock speed. So when you buy a motherboard for a new CPU assembly, consider the power supply requirements of your components.
Is there any special setup to install a Dual Core AMD Processor?
krimla2000 asked:
Ok, I just purchased a model 185 AMD dual core processor. My motherboard’s bios supports dual core so that’s not a problem. Now, after I install my processor, do I need to activate a special bios setting and after boot up and do I need to install any special windows XP feature to get it to recognize both cores? Is this all an automatic plug n play operation that does all this itself (like single core processors)? Thanks for any help.
Ok, I just purchased a model 185 AMD dual core processor. My motherboard’s bios supports dual core so that’s not a problem. Now, after I install my processor, do I need to activate a special bios setting and after boot up and do I need to install any special windows XP feature to get it to recognize both cores? Is this all an automatic plug n play operation that does all this itself (like single core processors)? Thanks for any help.
Computer Processor – Before, Now And Eventually
Kevin Dark asked:
The fact is that a computer comprises several processors however the one regularly used by advertisers when they want to draw attention to the power of a computer commonly relates to the Central Processing Unit (CPU).
Few individuals will not have heard of Intel or AMD processors while their significance to the advertising community and thereby the general public at large is comparable to the way motor manufacturers sell their cars. If in the market for a sports car an individual usually wants as much performance as is available hence manufacturers will sell their most powerful cars simply by stating the number of cylinders a particular model possesses. By using just two letters such as V8 – a message is sent to the public consumer who will automatically recognize that this indicates a potentially powerful engine. The equivalent term to excite the adrenalin rush in the computer buyer today is probably a “Dual Core Processor”.
However before describing the merits of dual core processing or any other electronic component or semiconductors it seems reasonable to first explain why the CPU attracts so much attention, possibly more than any other electronic component lurking within a computer.
The specification of a CPU is defined by its speed for example 900 MHz provides an approximation of the number of instructions that a CPU is able to process by the second – 900 million in this example. In addition the data handling capability of a CPU defines its power: a 64-bit CPU is able to combine, stage-manage or subtract numbers that are 64-bits wide. In the early nineties computers with 16-bit CPUs were considered powerful while today 64-bits are the norm, a reflection of how far the IT public sector experience has developed in a little over fifteen years.
A CPU today would seem like something from an alien world to the computer geeks of fifteen years ago, Not only have they become much more powerful but in addition their use of new materials as semiconductors increases efficiency beyond anything thought manageable fifteen years ago. The intention of these new semiconductors is directly aimed at the speed with which a CPU operates. Making the CPU faster is an ongoing challenge that drives this industry because ultimately all computers are limited by the capability of their CPU and, because IT has become an established ingredient in the daily routine people now have to handle we are much more proficient at using them.
The knock on effect from the IT development of the past fifteen years relates to people and their improved functionality when interacting with computers. The demands made on electronic components will continue to increase as people learn how to add, manipulate and subtract using their IT on a daily basis and it seems that no matter how fast electronic components become they will never quite be capable of matching the speed of the brain whose fingers deftly work a keyboard.
In addition a fast CPU back in the early nineties ran at around 386 MHz, an electronic component that would today freeze being within close proximity of a modern PC game.
The fact is that a computer comprises several processors however the one regularly used by advertisers when they want to draw attention to the power of a computer commonly relates to the Central Processing Unit (CPU).
Few individuals will not have heard of Intel or AMD processors while their significance to the advertising community and thereby the general public at large is comparable to the way motor manufacturers sell their cars. If in the market for a sports car an individual usually wants as much performance as is available hence manufacturers will sell their most powerful cars simply by stating the number of cylinders a particular model possesses. By using just two letters such as V8 – a message is sent to the public consumer who will automatically recognize that this indicates a potentially powerful engine. The equivalent term to excite the adrenalin rush in the computer buyer today is probably a “Dual Core Processor”.
However before describing the merits of dual core processing or any other electronic component or semiconductors it seems reasonable to first explain why the CPU attracts so much attention, possibly more than any other electronic component lurking within a computer.
The specification of a CPU is defined by its speed for example 900 MHz provides an approximation of the number of instructions that a CPU is able to process by the second – 900 million in this example. In addition the data handling capability of a CPU defines its power: a 64-bit CPU is able to combine, stage-manage or subtract numbers that are 64-bits wide. In the early nineties computers with 16-bit CPUs were considered powerful while today 64-bits are the norm, a reflection of how far the IT public sector experience has developed in a little over fifteen years.
A CPU today would seem like something from an alien world to the computer geeks of fifteen years ago, Not only have they become much more powerful but in addition their use of new materials as semiconductors increases efficiency beyond anything thought manageable fifteen years ago. The intention of these new semiconductors is directly aimed at the speed with which a CPU operates. Making the CPU faster is an ongoing challenge that drives this industry because ultimately all computers are limited by the capability of their CPU and, because IT has become an established ingredient in the daily routine people now have to handle we are much more proficient at using them.
The knock on effect from the IT development of the past fifteen years relates to people and their improved functionality when interacting with computers. The demands made on electronic components will continue to increase as people learn how to add, manipulate and subtract using their IT on a daily basis and it seems that no matter how fast electronic components become they will never quite be capable of matching the speed of the brain whose fingers deftly work a keyboard.
In addition a fast CPU back in the early nineties ran at around 386 MHz, an electronic component that would today freeze being within close proximity of a modern PC game.